FLORES-LOMBOK-BALI

                                                                                                       
                                                 
                                                                                                                                                                        August 2011
                                                                                                                                                                          Indonesia                                                                                                                                               
                                                                                         
 Selamant Jiang                                                                                                                                                                                         
We depart Lembata and sail along the north coast of Flores Island. The island is over 450 miles long with a skyline of spectacular volcanoes. The wind is up and Blaze sails in relatively smooth waters.  After a days sail we arrive in  Maumere. Maumere is a dirty port town with too many small concrete buildings. The litter and graffiti along with oppressive heat makes us wonder why anyone would live here.  A bit sketchy but people seem very friendly and curious. We are the only boat in port. As we are anchoring "Aladdin". (Yes his real name) comes along side Blaze in his long boat. He greets us with a big smile and "Selamat Sore"! (hello). He wears a Kufis (traditiona skull cap) and a loose caftan type shirt.  He wants us to use his mooring. We thank him but must decline because Blaze is too heavy.

Ann asks if he is Muslim. He responds "Yes...but no guns...no 911". (I guess he has been asked that one before).  We talk with Aladdin  and discover he was raised in Sumbawa. He has taught himself english and moved to Maumere for a better life. ( makes me wonder what his living conditions were on Sumbawa? ) The water in this bay is muddy and almost sticky. We don't want to put our dingy in the water. Ann asks Aladdin for a ride ashore. He offers to have his long boat to take us back and forth at anytime, for a small fee. That sounds great to us. Saves our fuel and we dont have to scrub the bottom of the dink!  We also planned to vist the volcano. Aladdin informs us he as a friend with a "good car for volcanoes"! We did not want ot leave the boat unattended. Aladdin said he has a " trusted"  friend who coud watch the boat. We have been in Muamere less than an hour  and Aladdin has arranged our rides ashore, to the volcano, has told us where the market is, the cash machine, and the port office. If he lived in the USA he would be a very successful entrepenuer!   When we arrive ashore Aladdain introduces  us to a group of men who have been watching us from the pier.  They are all curious and most welcoming. Each gives us a small bow and smile. The  Call to Prayer sounds from the minaret. Time for Aladding to get to the Mosque!  He apologizes he must leave but assures us he will return.  The only reason to visit Maumere is to see Kelimutu. This is a volcano with 3 huge lakes deep in a crater. Our adventure starts out with the usual first hour on a paved road next 3 hous in ruts. After our jaring but scenic drive we are rewarded with Kelimutu. We hike up to the top. As we stand on the rim we look down into a huge abyss. The lakes are each a diffent color due to the different mineral content. The water looks thick like pudding. The pools of Kelimutu are considered sacred. The locals believe the souls of the young go to the turquoise lake, the old go to the brown lake and evil souls go to the black lake.  Sadly, Peter is hearing the drums of Lake Washington. This is where the Chi of  all Real Estate Developers goes. Duty calls and he must leave. I will stay on with Ann to sail Blaze to Bali.( Someone has to do it !)

 

 We spend the week sailing along the north coast of Flores and then  Sumbawa.  There is not a breath of wind tonight as we motor sail along the rugged coast.  On  night watch I spotted a  red light in the distance. As we got closer I realized it wasn't a navigation light or marker.  With the binoculars I could see there were two firey balls of molten lava slowly sliding down the volcano. It all seemed to move in slow motion. I kept adjusting the binoculars to confirm the spectacle.  I spent the next  hour watching the "show" as Blaze slowly moved by. Such a powerful sight in the dark of night! The Rim of Fire (as they call Indonesia) is alive and eurpting! We worked our way along the north coast of Sumbawa enroute to Sontang Island.  Sontang Island is known for the sunken lake. We arrived late in the day as the sun was setting. As all wise sailors know....you drop anchor long before sun sets! We attempted a few times and managed a secure holding for the night. The next morning we were ready to explore.  We hiked inland to the center of the crater. The lake is actually at sea level. On our hike (a very easy walk) inland we find the saltwater lake. The water looks dark and murky  and not paticularly inviting. But is like bath water. The thermal activity below is providing constant heat for the water. Time for my first volcanic bath!
                                        

LOMBOK to BALI

Blaze is on the final leg to Bali. We sail to Pulau Moyo-a very quiet island. There is a very exclusive resort here.  We decided to stop and check it out.  For only $900/night you can stay in tent styled bungalows.  (this does not include food or drink!). There is a white sand beach with lounge chairs, a large open air dining room, spa (extra$) and a pool. You arrive by float plane (additional $800) and spend time sitting on the beach.  OUCH! Talk about rip off. But as the lovely lady explained this is about privacy.( Heck if you want privacy climb to the top of the volcano!  No one is there!) We left Moyo and sailed overnight across the north coast of Sumbawa and on to Lombok. We spent time on the Gili Islands just off the northwest coast of Lombok.  The Gili Islands have  beautiful  rings of coral around them. Ideal for snorkeling. The deeper waters are know for sharks, manta rays turtles, sea horses, bump head parrot fish, and a Japanese wreck. It doesnt get much better.
The Islands are charming with  horse drawn carts or bicylces to get around (no cars) The locals are happy to act as your taxi. We opted out. But after 15 minutes in the swealtering heat with no breeze we were tempted.  The currents in this area are very strong. You have to be careful not to get swept out to sea. On one dive I was swimming forward only to be gliding  backward with the tide. Not a very comfortable feeling. The underwater world of giant turtles, brilliant coral and colorful and unusual fish went streaming by me. The show was too fast! Back in the dink to drop in one more time for a view of the underwater world.  While drifting aimlessly  I can hear engines whizzing above. I cautiously pop my head or hand up so the "watcher" sees me. This is usually a young guy sitting on the bow of the boat on the lookout for bobbing heads.
This afternoon the wind has really picked up 15-20 knots on the nose. The currents in Lombok Straight meet the Indian Ocean and can make large swells.  Blaze is slamming into the waves.   With wind on the nose and rough water it is not a very comfortable ride. We sail south to Nusa Penida.  The next few days are spent  exploring Nusa Penida and then Nusa Lembongan-small islands off the coast of Bali.  The dramatic peaks of the Rinjan Volcano are visible in the distance.  At Bali we enter Benoa harbor. This area is riddled with reefs.  The markers are not always there. Even when there are  markers we rely on our own charts. Benoa marina is a small place with dilapidated dock with ‘fingers’ to tie up your boat. The power does not always work and you cannot drink the water. To add to the fun, check in requires a stop at the harbor master, immigration, navy, quarantine and then back to the harbor master. (none are in the same building or part of town). Five copies of the of each form is required so there is a stop at a "copy" shop. This obstacle of course requires a taxi and an entire day due to that long lunch break.  Upon departure you do the same drill.  As I said before bureaucracy is alive and well in Indonesia. After being at sea and interacting mostly with sea life,  this is a rude awakening. Thank heaven Captain Ann is organized and 4 steps ahead of the process!!

Blaze has just completed 1,260 nautical miles (1,300 miles) from Australia through the Eastern islands of Indonesia. It has been a challenge.  Blaze had issues with the water maker, ripped sail, the bridle chafing, and failure on the anchor winch. (to mention just a few items). We had some long sailing nights and tired sailors.  However we are thrilled we never hit a reef, lost the fishing rod, tangled with a shark,  spilled the wine or lost anyone overboard!  There are always too many wonderful things happening to ruinlife aboard Blaze!

Selamant Jalan!
Captain Molly and 1st Mate Peter