LAND DOWN UNDER

                                                                                Australia
                                                                                December 2010
G'day from Down under!

                                                                                         

Connor and I arrive Sydney December 17th joining Brendan and Ann aboard Blaze. We spent the day acclimating  and walking about. Blaze is in d'Abora Marina on Rushcutters Bay just east of Sydney. Sam and Lauren arrive late the next nite from London. Got out just before the big snow storm!

   Next am I  off with the boys to Uluru (Ayers Rock) located smack in the middle of this gigantic continent. Uluru is a huge red monolith erupting from a flat  arid desert. It is one of the natural wonders of the world. That nite we have dinner at the Sound of Silence. It is dining "experience" set up in the brush facing Ayers Rock. We are dining as we watch the changing hues as the sun set. Quite a wonderful setting.  Uluru is a red rock geological formation set in the middle of a flat,arid desert. We tour the rock one morning before bit the sweltering heat. There are hieroglyphics on the rock walls. The shapes depict the people, wildlife, and the celestial significance in their lives. The desert has had record rainfall the past few month. The landscape has some green vegetation and small flowers. These appear once in every 8-10 years! Only sections of Uluru are open to the public. The rest is sacred ground owned by the Aborigines. Nearby are the Olga's. There are 36 dome type rocks with steep valleys plunging to the earth.  We hiked one of the trails through    the immense gorges. A trekkers dream!

Back to Blaze with Peter and Whitney arriving to complete our family. We spent time walking around  Sydney. It is a young, modern city. There are stunning views of the infamous Opera House, the Sydney Bridge, Circular Key and all the water along the city. It is a busy harbor with ferries, tourist boats, water taxis, sail and power boats, helicopters and sea planes. The sailboat races are each evening just outside the main harbor. We took the infamous bridge climb and are happy to report everyone survived. (Thank you Nikey and Gene). We managed to tour Circular Key, Taronga Zoo, Bondi Beach, the Rocks and did some Christmas shopping in downtown. Sydney is heading to the top of our favorite city experiences. On Christmas Eve we went to a show at the Opera House. Just being inside this unique structure was an event in itself. The Great Christmas Caper was part Opera, story telling, Christmas choir, comedy and Santa all rolled into one. The sounds of the opera voices made vibrated through our bones! Later, Christmas Eve Service at St Mary's Cathedral ( a stunning Church). Then back to Blaze for dinner. Christmas morning it was coffee, mimosas and presents! It was a gift to have our entire family together for Christmas. And to think we arrived from Seattle, San Francisco, Arley Beach, OZ  and London!

Dec 26th is Boxing Day for OZies' and more important the start of the Sydney to Hobart Race. A 680 mile race that heads south towards  Bass Straits. This area is notorious for high winds. Many boats are forced to pull out each year.
 

We took Blaze out to the first tac on the race course. The first class to start were the Maxis. These are large, sleek, spendy racing boats.  (Think Amerca's Cup).  The start looks like a massive curtain of huge sails moving toward us.   The yachts are so close together you could jump from one to the other. A lot of yelling and screaming occurs as they battle to take the lead. There were boat names like Wild Oats, Secret Men's Business, Wild Thing and Vixen. A radio  

We took Blaze out to the first tac on the race course. The first class to start were the Maxis. These are large, sleek, spendy racing boats.  (Think Amerca's Cup).  The start looks like a massive curtain of huge sails moving toward us.   The yachts are so close together you could jump from one to the other. A lot of yelling and screaming occurs as they battle to take the lead. There were boat names like Wild Oats, Secret Men's Business, Wild Thing and Vixen.  

Sitting on the "sidelines" are hundreds of boats all jockeying for the best view  along the race course. We are all  bobbing up and down trying to avoid collision. Peter is remembering his racing days. I know he would love to be aboard one of these racing machines.

After our city experience  we sailed north to Pittwater. A scenic sailing area with many waterways. Reminiscent of the San Juans.  You could spend months exploring. The wind and warm weather were perfect. Great kayaking and swimming. Our time flew by and suddenly it was time to head back. On our approach Sydney we sailed  between the Heads. We had a fabulous view of the Sydney skyline. Truly impressive.

Our time in Sydney has exceeded  our expectations. This may be because we shared it with our family. We want to wish you all a very Happy New Year! May your lives be filled with good health, happiness and love in 2011!!

Captain Molly  First Mate Peter

WHITNSUNDAY WONDERLAND

                                                                                                            Australia

                                                                                                           November 2010

After our heart-stopping excitement with Brendan, we dropped him at Hamilton Island. (back to work.) We spent the next day reprovisioning Blaze and doing laundry. The day had turned cloudy with wind picking up. Our "true blue" sailing friends Brad and Alison joined us. It’s amazing they have come back! They have survived our toughest trips.  In 2007 they were aboard Blaze in the North Sea. Ugly-40 knot winds and breaking waves.  Next it was dodge ball with freighters in a night-crossing on the English Channel. Then the Bay of Biscay off west coast of France.  Poor souls, they have been aboard Blaze in brutal conditions!  Our next expedition found us in Antigua. We left port on a warm sunny afternoon...a snorkel in pristine water....and then we found a prop not working.   After days of making the "best" of it we headed home. Once again not a great sailing adventure. 

Brad and Ally have bravely joined us in Australia. As they say, Third Time’s a Charm??  That is exactly what happened. We set out for the  Barrier Reef under clear skies and 8-10 knots of wind. Main up with gennaker flying. Bait Reef for the night. A beautiful morning and we are ready to dive. A coral carpet stretched out below our fins. The rainbow of the colors magnified by the sunlight.  We floated over reefs teeming with iridescent sea life. As we drifted huge schools of brilliant yellow butterflyfish, odd looking pipefish, bright orange clownfish, moray eels, blue sea stars and jellyfish. The pond-like water gave us an awesome dive.

The next scuba dive found us exploring deep crevices and coral tunnels. Cousteau would have loved to join us. The dive was in another world. Huge lumbering turtles glided by. We had more sightings of sharks than anywhere else.  Usually, 1 or 2 at a time moving stealthily through the water. They look sinister and always on the hunt.  One afternoon we were finishing a snorkel when Peter spotted a "school" ??? of sharks.   These guys don't usually travel in packs. Obviously, there was a "Shark Convention" We swam splashlessly (?)  to our dingy and departed for the Mother Ship!!!

After days of Nirvana, we sailed back to the Whitsundays. Enroute we snagged 3 tuna. The usual  Chinese fire drill ensues. ( Pull-in the Main and Genoa.... gaff ready!) Hook that baby! Brad and Peter get quite the workout reeling them in.  Lunch and dinner menus are set! We take a quick stop and walk along Langley Beach. They call this long strip of white sand “Bali Hai”.  The sand spit looks suspended in the sea. It will soon disappear as the tide rises and consumes the beach.  A change in weather is approaching. Time to high tail to Cid Bay... wind quickly bumps ups to 20knots. Rain is pounding on the boat. It is warm but wet. We  Drop the anchor, attach the bridle set in for the night. Rain continues. ( nice thing about the rain-it rinses salt off the boat.) After a drenching rain overnight, we find a leak in the aft cabin and leak in the galley ceiling. The joys of boat ownership! Today the forecast is for high winds gusting up to 35mph. The yacht charterers are being told to tuck away for the night.  We liked that advice and headed for the marina at Hamilton. The town of Haley is Ann’s home port. And everyone knows Ann.! With Blaze secured to a dock, there is no stress. (A luxury we truly appreciate.) We spend the next few days hiking to Cook Lookout and Passage Peak. A tough uphill climb but spectacular views of the islands. It has been an amazing trip with exceptional diving, serious sailing, beautiful beaches and hiking. We are also thrilled that Brad and Allyson finally got to experience "Sailing in Paradise ".  
We have seen boats we met in Croatia, Panama, and Tahiti. The farther we sail the smaller the world seems to be. 

Once again our time has raced by.  We have been blessed with our wind, weather and good friends. G'day from Down Under!

Captain Molly
 First Mate Peter

BLAZE ESCAPADE

                                                                                                                        Great Barrier Reef
                                                                                                                        October  2010

Hello All

Our adventures on the Great Barrier Reef continue aboard Blaze. Since Brendan has arrived the scare factor has gone up exponentially.  There was the day we went snorkeling. We dropped Brendan and Ian off to go spear fishing.  Ann and I opted to snorkel in another location.(Survival instincts at work!).

After we finished our amazing  snorkel we went back to pick up the guys. As we approached Brendan vaulted into the boat with spear gun in hand. His eyes were gigantic, hands shaking  and face pale. What was going on?

Shark Leftovers!



 Brendan had successfully speared a 35lb grouper. The fish fought hard to get away. The grouper managed to dive down in a crevice between two rocks.  Brendan reached down hoping to pull the spear out. A shark suddenly shot by and took a chunk out of the fish! Brendan snatched his hand up and froze. He watched in shock and incredible anxiety as the shark circled below his fins. A second shark appeared and attacked the grouper as well. The deadly animals continued their vicious attack. They darted in and out of the rocks to devour their prey. The frenzied feed continued until only the head was left. The sharks retreated and Brendan could breathe again. He was still afraid to move. Were the sharks finished? He spotted us approaching and leapt into  the zodiac. He still had the spear gun in hand. Ian pulled in the line. The  fish still had  the spear  stuck through his head. A gruesome sight! That was too close a call. We all shuddered as to what could have happened -thanked our lucky stars ( that would be God) everyone was safe!

After so much heart stopping drama,  Brendan toned it down for us. The next evening we were having a BBQ on the aft deck. Brendan and Dane had the fish head hanging on a line from the steps. The small fish are attracted to the lights below the boat but no interest in the fish head. Suddenly there is a large splash followed by Brendan yelling shark! We all jumped up and stared into the darkness. We could see a large shape moving back and forth in the water. The shadow approached again and we could see it was a Hammerhead! He viciously ripped the fish head off the line. We all jumped back shaking in terror.

Hammerhead Hello!



A hammerhead is a prehistoric looking shark. Their snouts are expanded laterally. There jaw looks like a gigantic head on a vacuum cleaner. Only there are teeth that snatch up their victim. They look vicious and can be quite aggressive. They are not a speices you often see.  Our only other sighting was in the Galapagos. After 3 days of frightful excitement with Brendan we dropped him off on Hamilton  Island. Actually he had to go back to work! Thank our lucky stars.

Wishing Everyone a Happy Thanksgiving!

Captain Molly and 1st Mate Peter

JUNGLE JAUNT

                                                                                                                         Solomon Islands
                                                                                                                          September 2010


Hello All!

Jungle day on Guadacanal! We spend Sunday hiking up to Matanikau Falls. We start our trek in Lelei Village. Life here is a minimal existence. Homes are built up on stilts due to flooding. Some are simple wood frames with corrugated metal siding. Doors and windows not included. There is no running water, electricity, or plumbing. Children are splashing and playing in the river as their moms

 wash clothes. The "car wash" is in full swing. Cars are backed into the river and scrubbed with their hands. At the village we must pay the chief a fee to cross over his land. He is happy to see us. We are his only source of cash income. We continue our hike which is now a steep hillside. It is hot and humid morning. Only 9am and the air hangs on you like a hot steamy towel.

The ridge of the mountain has numerous foxholes left over from the war. Nathzi our local guide is our ' history' teacher. He has the build of a rugby player and dreadlocks like Bob Marley. His English is excellent. He also speaks two island dialects and the local Pidgyn English. Nathsi tells us he was kicked out of high school for chewing Betel nut. Today he chews 4 times a day. Not sure if this is good or bad?? I did notice his teeth were not orange. (Maybe he uses a toothbrush??) He is well informed on the war. He tells us about the battle of One Thousand Horses. A brutal defeat for the Japanese who hiked through dense jungle below US troops who shot from fox holes along the ridge. We climbed higher and enjoyed a panoramic view of the sound and islands beyond.

 We trekked farther inland and entered the prolific rain forest. It had rained a lot the previous week and the path was sloppy. I went barefoot since my shoes were so caked with mud there was no traction. At one point we stood atop a cliff. As we looked below all we could see was a thick tangle of jungle. Nathzi motioned us over and we could see a crude path straight down the side. As dutiful soldiers we followed him down. About 10 steps into our descent it becomes obvious this is no longer a hike. We are actually slipping down a mud chute. The mud is like deep layers of thick chocolate frosting, oozing between the toes. No way to get a good purchase with your foot. Nathzi shows us a 'Tarzan' type vine that runs along the path.

 Dave and Lynn have already slid out of sight to who knows where! I grab hold as I struggle to back my way down stretching my leg as long as I can. Several times my foot slips through the mud and I drop straight down dangling from the vine! (Believe me 'Jane' never did this!) After a few more mishaps my fingers are caked with mud. On the next precarious step my heel shoots out from under me and I slide down the hill with the vine racing through my mud greased hands. I stop about 10 ft. later. Now it is time for drastic action! I turn and put my seat in the mud. I I grab the vine. and slide down the chute like a wild child. Screaming out the 'Tarzan' call (Watching for branches, bumps and lumps.) Not very graceful but it did the job. We are caked with mud and exhausted. Our shoulder sockets sore from hanging on for dear life. There are some scratches, cuts and bruises. ( I would bet money the camera crew for ' Survival' are filming. )

At last we arrived a Matanikau Waterfalls. It is a refreshing and calming sight. We walk into the cool crisp pool below and literally wash the mud off our clothes. Lynn and I decided to climb up the waterfall and jump back into the water below. Heaven! After a rest and more swimming we felt ready to go! Now that we had survived the hike-.it was time to swim the out of the jungle on the river. That is another story!

We hope everyone is well. Hard to believe it is September! Take Care.......

                                              Capt Molly and Soul MatePeter

NGGELA SULE

Solomon Islands September 2010

AHOY MATES!!!

 It's time to leave Honiara and head across Iron Bottom Sound towards Nggela Sule in the Floridas Group. Conditions are overcast skies with pond like water. There is a whisper of wind on the nose. Quite a contrast to yesterdays unsettled weather with wind and heavy rains. A large pod of dolphins entertains us as Blaze glides through the water. They gracefully race with the bows. We arrive in Roderick Bay just off Sandfly Passage. John the unofficial "greeter" paddles up to Blaze in his worn dugout canoe. He welcomes us with a huge "betel nut" smile.  His teeth are stained orange and many have turned black. He is a small wiry man in dirty clothes and a ripped baseball cap. His English is good and he is quite happy to see us. We follow him in his canoe. He paddles on leading us around a submerged reef to a buoy right in front of his village. We meet his tiny wife Lillian.  She has a halo of black frizzy hair around her head. She looks much older than her 30+years.( we discovered later many villagers do not know how old they are. Especially those 30+.) I actually like this idea!

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Ann was here in 1998 and has brought pictures. The shock and curiosity of these photos is priceless. One young girl in a photo is now a mother. Her mom and grandmother all live in this village and are amazed at the picture. The idea of 'seeing' the past is foreign. There is much laughter and curiosity over the photos. The children are beautiful with big brown eyes, wavy dark hair and brilliant white teeth. (no betel nut...yet!).They are very shy initially but too inquisitive to stay away. Lynn and  I have star stickers. I put a sticker on a little girls hand. She runs off to show her mother. Soon we have a swarm of kids waiting politely for their turn. To my surprise the teenage boys are in line as well. John II invites us back tomorrow night for dance and music.

Later we  go ashore and visit John II. For some unexplained reason John's brother is also named John????? The 2 brothers  have had a falling out. Now there are 2 villages. In these outer islands the Wantok traditions are practiced.  Wantok custom refers to people from the same language group and/or blood relatives living in the same village. John II's village  is spotless. No trash, no foul smells, the dirt has been swept and people look clean despite their worn clothing.(Honiara is the ugly stepsister compared to this village.) The island people  are self sufficient. They live off the land and sea for food, shelter, and dug out canoes. Everyone lives in a basic thatched hut one maybe 2 rooms. No electricity or  plumbing. The biggest convenience is a dugout canoe and batteries. Life here has frozen in time.  

 

This morning 'Willy ' paddles up to the aft steps.  He proudly unwraps. His carvings and places each piece on Blaze. We spend time admiring his work and asking questions. I have my eyes on a piece that is a traditional spirit used to fend off warriors. (I was thinking it could fend off pirates for Blaze.) The bargaining begins! We banter back and forth. He is firm on his price. I bring out sandpaper and the price drops. I happily buy my carving. Peter comes over and decides he likes a different piece. He tries his luck at bargaining. I come back to 'help' him. I hold the 'trump' card. Willie spots it immediately. His eyes give him away. In my hands is a set of small carving knives. The price on Peter's carving now hits rock bottom. I am happy with our carvings and Willie is thrilled with his new tools and 120 grit sandpaper. These were not expensive items. The small knife set was $12. We were asked for fishing line, hooks, batteries, clothes. These people were not aggressive and usually had something to trade. But after 10 lbs of bananas what do you do?

We have spent days gunk holing  around Nggela and Tulagi Islands. We head for Toyoko Bay, sight of a  submerged Japanese destroyer. Blaze maneuvers through Mboli Passage onto Ghavutu. Here we meet Mickey and Michael. They paddle out to the boat and tell us to be careful There has been theft. A not so cheery welcome. Mickey happily guides us to good snorkeling areas and WWII wrecks. He dives without mask or snorkel.  One morning we dive on a US PBY plane wreck. A bit eerie to know a pilot went down possibly on a  reconnaissance mission.  It is a chilling  reference to "Davey Jones' Locker.

We have been immersed in the history of WWII on Guadacanal. All I can say is those GI's were in brutal conditions. They were so young and simply amazing.

Hope everyone is adjusting to the fall weather! Take Care!

Capt Molly and Soul Mate Peter!