Fiji
Novmeber 2009Bula Bula !!
We have been enjoying our travels to Taveuni, Ringold Islands, Kioa Island, Rambi Islands, Matagi, and Lacalua. This last location was quite different from the warm and friendly welcome we had been experiencing. We arrived at a beautiful bay with a white sand beach, dotted with perfectly thatched bungalows. It was getting close to sundown. Time to anchor for the night. As we are about to anchor a speedboat comes out of nowhere and a large Fijian gentlemen tell us we cannot anchor here. Of course Peter drops the anchor and about 60 feet of chain. The two guys look shocked. Again they tell us we cannot anchor here. It is a private island. Peter informs them that the boat is in Fijian waters and he CAN anchor here. There are a few more exchanges then they call their boss. He contacts us on Channel 16-the general call channel. Peter tells them to have the ‘boss’ call him on his cell phone. The “boss,” Masin informs us that guests come here for complete privacy. Peter in calm dignity responds that we are a private yacht and expect complete privacy as well. The boss insists no photographs allowed. Peter agrees and requests none of Masins’ guests take photographs of the Blaze. The volley continued. Masin says no kayaking to shore. Peter wants no kayaking out to Blaze. The match finally ends in an understanding. 
A few minutes later the local chief comes by in his canoe. Again telling us we cannot anchor here. Being the Chief he does have more authority. Once we tell him we are not going ashore he is fine. He goes off in the same direction as the first boat. We finally sit down to have a glass of wine and listen to John play his guitar. But its’ not to be. Another ‘muscle’ boat comes speeding out to us. (Fijian KGB?) This boat is occupied by three very large Fijian men. They looked like they may have played Rugby for Fiji in earlier days. These guys are somber. One asks if he may board our boat. Being eternally friendly Peter smiles brightly and says SURE!! He offers him a beer but he declines. Meanwhile the other two men circle the boat watching. I felt like we were prey. I am sitting on the bow (ok I am hiding) and thinking it’s a big ocean. Let’s anchor somewhere else!
The big guy explains yet another time about the private island, guests, no beach etc… he gets nowhere. Peter totally changes the subject and asks where he grew up, went to school yaddie, yaddie……The man grew up in the Lau Group. This is a very remote group of islands. You must apply and be granted a permit to visit. Well it just so happens we have one of these!! Gotchya!!! Peter tells him we are heading for the Lau Group! Mr. ‘Rugby’ looks beyond suspicious. But then Peter starts rattling off names like Vanu Balavu , Naitabua, Kaimbu etc. Big guy starts to melt. Now he is telling Peter the best diving and fishing spots. And of course where his family lives. I think the ‘security detail’ has just had their cover blown. The KGB circling the boat will need to ‘stand down’. We are finally left alone for the night. We have assured Masin we will leave tomorrow morning. The odd thing about this entire situation is there were no guests at the resort. No one on the beach, in the bungalows, in the restaurant or on the dock. In fact as night fell……there were no lights on anywhere. I think we were their first intruders. The Security Detail seems to need more training!!!
One thing we have noticed here are the names. Many places have what I
call the ‘2 chance’ name. For example, there is SomoSomo, Lomaloma, Savusavu, and sevusevu! This is great practice unless you are saying it wrong---twice! Our wind and weather continue to
be a sailors delight. Our time here as gone by quickly. Hope this finds you well. Wishing everyone a Happy Thanksgiving.
Dhanyewaad!!
Captain Molly Molly
and
First Mate Peter Peter